Tonight we sleep at an address that corners on the Camino de Santiago. Outside our room is the starting place for our 500-mile walk across the northern paths of Spain.
We’ve arrived, but we’re in France, a country I never thought I would visit. With just an evening to spare for a look-see, I’m charmed. Red tile roofs and white plastered walls contrast against the green hills that beckon us.
Ryan Air Flight 372 flew us out of London to the Basque city of Biarritz, a bay town of 30,000 in the South of France. Our subsequent drive took us past 34 miles of farms and forests. It offered me my first view of — not one or two — but a formidable herd of donkeys, shortly before my introductory glimpse of St. Jean Pied de Port.
Tomorrow our 16-mile walk over the Pyrenees will usher us into Spain.
But tonight we’re resting, as best possible facing the anticipation of what tour books are saying is the most difficult leg of our pilgrimage to Santiago — a 1,200-meter elevation gain with a steep descent of 469 meters. It will take at least eight hours.
This is Basque territory, and there are published rules of conduct: In the event you seek shelter in a cave, cattle have first priority.
We paid homage to the Basque cattle ranchers tonight at dinner, eating hamburgers, the cheapest item on the menu for tourist-pilgrims. It was a relaxing sit-down, ending our day of preparation.
We visited the official Pilgrim’s office. A devoted French volunteer spent fifteen minutes with us, previewing what to expect on tomorrow’s outing. We picked up our shells (more explanation of that symbol in a future post), found a bakery that might provide some initial carbs in the morning, and found the route to the trailhead.
Our room in the Ramuntcho Hotel comes across quaint, clean, and welcoming. We are blessed to have a room. Up to seventy visitors have been steered to a local gymnasium because all accommodations are full. Caves, too, may be full.
The French have been more than hospitable, and we will miss them. Viva la France.
Our prayers are with you.
Thank you, Will be missing you on this Sunday morning.
Bon voyage premier jour
Enjoy the crossing into Spain, but seriously, are you comfortable having Nancy point the way?
Bon voyage premier jour
Enjoy crossing into Spain – but seriously, are you comfortable having Nancy point the way on the first day? Just sayin’
Zoe says to tell Mrs. Witt that she is watching your adventures, and that you’re very lucky to have witnessed a herd of her favorite animal, the donkey. The Brick family is excited for you!
Have a great journey. Looking forward to all your blogs. Praying for fair weather, strong legs, and an amazing experience gor you and Nanc.
It’s a Journey . . .
unless it’s sitting down, taking your shoes off and putting your feet into a cool stream, having a warm shower and good linens, a hot meal and a cold beer . . .
Otherwise, it’s a Journey.
Beautiful description of the start, Ted, although are you comfortable with Nancy pointing the way?
Just sayin’